Questions and Answers about pH and KH problems in African Cichlid Aquarium

Question:

One of these days I will write the chemical for pH, kH and GH, and maybe I'll remember eventually. But now new councils. I have many good suggestions in my mbuna tank fairly new and so far has gone very well, but it is something wrong with my water. My tap water comes out to about 7.6 pH. I have about 30 pounds of rock drilled currently exist. But for some reason my pH seems to be decreasing. Are now approaching 7.2

My GH is still very high 200 or so, but my kH has also started to fall around 120 and today less than 80. Nitrates are between 10 and 20. 0-0 at the bad things. I am doing 30-40% water changes every week. I have 16 fish in a girl aged 55 "1 1 / 2 and 3. You may need a reminder about water chemistry, substrate or can my 'mystery'. Along with some as small gravel I've used in many tanks without prejudice apparent I have also maybe 15 # of things I was given some time ago with my first cichlids, a small tank so I have no idea what it is, but she mentioned it was "supposed to be good for aquarium plants." Is approximately 1 / 3 each of black red brick, stone and fire. Although they are relatively small as chips just over boulders – quite irregular and rough around the edges. On the other hand may not be at all. Any ideas?

Thanks.

Answer:

It is probably something that produces an abundance of normal acid production. Nitrification occurring acid ( oxide) and if you have a large amount of organic matter that accumulate can be part of his reason.

What is your filter (s)? Some filters, as large cartridge filters can produce a large amount of acid if not cleaned (washed) regularly. If you have an under gravel filter, make sure to stir from time when lifting pipes and trap mulm that accumulates under the plate. With all the filters it is important to eliminate much mulm and other organic debris as possible an empty aquarium is the preferred way.

As for your KH and GH, I'm a big supporter of KH and maintain adequate calcium levels for many reasons, one of them is problem is, the other is that GH is the easy way to know the levels of calcium in FW, and calcium is very important for fish health. Coral or aragonite sand can help but in my experience (especially high pH in aquariums, African cichlids and tanks), which are not always sufficient because they do not dissolve quickly enough to release adequate amounts of bicarbonates, magnesium, calcium or KH and GH.

In the closed environment of an aquarium, it seems that external sources that dissolve or added manually are often necessary. Not many products are available at Sea Marine chemical buffer that can be used in fresh water (especially for Rift Lake cichlids) and is preferable to sodium bicarbonate because the balance of sodium bicarbonate / magnesium and other trace elements, tanks wonder that others here know a lot of advocates.

At the risk of being too commercial, my tanks seldom without regular Maravilla Shell for control of calcium and electrolytes.

As for the plant substrate gave, it sounds like a product, such as Eco whole or azoo Rural Producers plant to lower its pH.

I have a story about KH, calcium and electrolytes: target = "_blank"> "CALCIUM, KH, and magnesium in aquariums; How to maintain an adequate KH, why calcium and electrolytes are important."

My point in mentioning that GH was calcium and magnesium is part of GH and

both are needed for proper osmotic processes in fish. KH If there are problems with many Sometimes there are problems with GH (although in this case there appears to be a problem.) The problem here also indicates that organic decomposition greatly reduces the KH .. Again I would check filters to build too. When I called customer aquaria that are experiencing this problem, many times had a filter with a thick layer of mulch at the bottom. Removing it, then adding a stabilizer of KH (which had better results with a

KH slow dissolving stabilizer) and solved the problem.

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By Carl Strohmeyer

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